Madrid was great. Turns out I really like Goya's Black Paintings.
That was at the Museo del Prado - you can get in free between 6 and 8pm and you can bet we weren't the only people exploiting this. We also visited the Plaza Mayor and had some wine, saw an Egyptian temple (given to Spain by Egypt to say thanks for moving temples such as Abu Simbel when they built the Aswan Dam), and saw obligatory sights such as the palace and the cathedral, the latter not being terribly impressive at all for cathedral veterans such as ourselves.
But Madrid isn't a city of bombastic set pieces, it's a thoroughly delightful and exciting city just for walking around, stopping occasionally for a drink. This was my first visit - Danielle had been before - and I'd always, for some strange reason, imagined it to be a charmless urban sprawl filled with belching industrial chimneys. Why I get these notions I don't know - I remember thinking the same about Zagreb, and it remains one of the most enjoyable places I've ever visited.
On our final day, my brother Ian and his wife Katherine joined us, and we wandered with them, having drinks along the way, enjoying the sunshine. Then it was goodbye Madrid, and a cheery goodbye to Goya.